Previous Pages: Page 110

Due to bouldering, job applications/interviews, friends weddings many other reasons which shouldn't affect the amount of climbing I do but does I thought I would use the gap to write a little about routes in the book that I did before I moved to Sheffield. Hopefully I can stop the blog going too stagnant in this way.

Page 110

Before moving to Sheffield I was at University at York St John, and took charge of the climbing club there. It was a lot of fun, a lot of work, but a lot of fun. I tried to keep a culture of climbing routes outdoors in a trad style, as I thought (rightly or wrongly,) that it was the place of climbing clubs to uphold an ethic to some degree. Anyway, this meant a fair amount of Gritstone, and generally me leading with 3, 4 or even 5 seconds (I wasn't setting up a top rope. How could it be a top rope, I climbed the routes and sat at the top and everything :P) In February 2008 (I know because I have written it in the guide,) A group of us headed to the peak on a day trip. There were 5 of us on this trip, and as always they started hanging around in a car park in york, tired, cold and with me trying to convince everyone that the weather was going to be great, the cold didn't matter and to generally be up beat.

I don't remember much about the day in general, but I do remember the reason why I thought Crow Chin would be a good buttress to head for. Crow Chin is a great target for a mixed ability group, with a starred route at a range of standards.

After discussion, friend, who went on to take charge of the climbing club after I left, led the first route. This was mainly due to wanted to get an easy route led, and also because I had my eye on October slab and May Crack. He led Bent Crack with no difficulty, which can't be said for his novice and semi-novice seconds, who struggled up the steep initial section, but the climbing above that I pleasant, big holds and nicely exposed without that 'out there' feeling you get on some routes (notably traverses over big drops, In future I might try and write some short pieces about other favourite routes, and the Spinx at Wainstones would fit into the 'out there' category, if you ever find yourself near Middlesbrough head to it,) I remember it being very windy and my friend placing a cam just below the top and having a bit of a struggle catching the quick draw at the same time as holding the rope as it was dancing around in front of his face, but he clipped in and topped out.

After sorting the gear and having a chat I racked up for October slab. At this point i think many of the less experienced members of the group would have been quite happy to find the outside cafe and a massive slice of cake, but I wanted to lead something so with a little trepidation I set up through the initial steep section of October Slab. I remember the relative steepness of the starting moves, the good flat holds, but with moves which I was move used to bouldering out than finding on routes. I think I may have even got a heel on and rocked up, like a proper rock star! I remember good holds, long moves and small, plentiful gear. The meat of the route however is the rising traverse of the underside of a flake. I had recently got a small red cam, and I remember placing it whilst doing the moves up the flake. The clean rock, the sweep of the ropes, and the whistle of the wind through the holes in my helmet were life affirming. Sometimes I find myself scared on routes I have no reason to fear, and I need to employ a little mental strength to carry on. On this route i was just in a place of control, of enjoyment. I had started the route a little angry, mainly at the indecision of others (this is a bad trait of mine, but once a plan is made, i like to see the plan through unless there are good reasons not too,) but when ever i look at page 110 of Eastern Grit I am pulling through the moves on the underside of the flake towards the top, leaving my gear behind but in complete control and happy....